Top Lawn Mower

I have been pretty impressed with my mower. I bought my L110 at a John Deere dealer here in Wisconsin about 5 years ago. I put on almost 100 hours per year.

It has mowed my 3 acres of rough terrain lawn as well as my parents 1 acre. I have done all my own service work on it. I have put on 3 belts, put in a bearing, and have had to weld on the cracked deck once. Other than that, I have only had to change the oil, grease it and attempt to keep it clean.

All said, it has been a good mower for the $1700 I paid for it.

Eric

I bought mine used. I found what I still think was a pretty good deal. It was a good deal because 1) the tractor was in great shape at a good price, and 2) the item was sold not because the previous owner didn’t want it, but because after moving to a house with a small yard he no longer needed it.

GT 225: what does that mean? GT means this is a garden tractor; it can do more than just cut grass. It can also power a tiller, plow loose dirt (not just snow), or drag a disc harrow, cultivator, plow, etc without destroying the transmission. Specifically it has the tuff-torq K71B trans axle, an upgrade from the LT series. 225: that doesn’t really mean anything, other than this a 200 series tractor, similar in function to the old 200 series (212, 214 etc), and the smallest engine/deck combo of the GT line. If you cut grass and anticipate doing a little landscaping or heavy yard work, this is what you want. This is the tractor which isn’t so big you look ridiculous mowing a half acre yard, but it’s rugged enough to fill a lawn cart with 1200 lbs of firewood or topsoil and truck it around your property.

The GT225 came originally with a Kohler 15hp motor, which provides plenty of grunt to move this very heavy tractor around, but with hydraulic lifters, it taps a little when you first start it up after sitting for a few weeks. No big deal. If you know anything about engines, you know even though it sounds a little ugly, no damage is being done, and it stops after a few minutes. I used Mobil 1 synthetic and it seems to help eliminate it. They fixed this problem by putting the 16hp Kohler in later models with solid lifters.

The deck is the standard 42″ convertible. It’s a good size for cutting a half acre. Had I purchased this tractor new, I would have went with the next size up (the 48″), not because of the larger size, but because there are four anti-scalp wheels instead of three. The 42″ does not have a wheel behind the chute, so if you’re cutting a delicate lawn like me (hybrid Bermuda at 1″), if you don’t have the lift arms tuned to identically match the anti-scalp position (there are 4 positions for the wheels, unlike similar Cub Cadets which are not adjustable), you will get a slight scalp on the right side when you turn. I’m overly picky. My front lawn basically looks like a putting green. If you’re cutting fescue or bluegrass at 2″ or more, you won’t even notice. The level of adjust ability this machine offers isn’t possible with the box-store models.

The deck is raised and lowered by a counter-sprung lift handle which is operated by your left hand. it’s fine if you drop the deck, mow your grass, and raise it when you’re done. If you’re constantly raising it up and down to get over humps, you might want to look at a hydraulic lift (GX300 series). Unlike the old 200 series, there is no implement lift in the back, so you can’t get a good sleeve hitch. I have seen a couple after market models which incorporate their own lift handle, but now you have lift handles all over the place–a little cumbersome.

The GT series has the big wheels. That’s a good feature. If you have a slightly bumpy yard or need traction on hills, you need the big wheels.

The GT series has a much more rugged frame than the no-longer-produced G series (which are the classic flimsy tractor with a big engine, marketed by John Deere at home improvement stores to cater to people who want cheap lawn mowers). It’s fully welded and has a bracket on the rear for suitcase weights.

This tractor has an electric PTO, which means you just pull a switch on the dash to engage the deck. If you pull up on the switch before backing up, you can override the Reverse Implement Off (RIO) feature, and mow in reverse. Otherwise it will shut off when you back up. I’ve thought about disabling it, which would be very easy, but with a lot of little kids in the neighborhood, you never know who will be behind you when you mow backwards, so it’s a good feature to slow me up a bit and keep me looking around.

The high-back seat is very comfortable, has its own elastomeric suspension (adjustable for weight) and moves fore and aft like a car seat. There is also a cup holder. But if you have thoughts of drinking a cold beer while you mow your lawn, forget it. The vibrations make your drink go flat in a matter of seconds. You’ll have to stick to sweet tea (or whiskey).

On the right side is the cruise control. It works great. But strangely enough it doesn’t disengage when you step on the brake.

My tractor came with the 7 bushel bagger (non-power flow). I was originally completely unhappy with it, but after changing the blades, I’ve had no problems; no clogs and nothing left behind. Apparently the old blades were not the high-lift blades. Either that or they just lose their ability to move air when the bent-up tabs on the back get worn from a season of mowing my sandy yard.

I also got a 10 cu ft cart with the purchase. it’s okay. I had a Brinly 12′ cart which I sold with my Cub Cadet. That one was built a little more rugged, even though it sells for less (but it wasn’t green like the new tractor, so I got rid of it, sadly). I don’t think it had greasable axles like the JD cart, however.

The most important feature of a garden tractor is the strength of its transmission. Most JD garden tractors (and many Craftsman, Husqvarna and others) have transaxles manufactured by Tuff-torq. You can find specific information on each model on their own website. The engine size is the least important factor. This tractor has a 15 hp engine and it mows significantly faster and better than my previous Cub Cadet 1000 series which had an 18hp motor. Most of the tractors you see have engines which are far more powerful than the transmission can handle. I’ve hauled my 10 cu ft trailer heaped over with sand up hills and never saw a need for more power. The transmission, the tuff torq K71, is basically the same K71 used in the GX series. The only difference is the K71 in the GX has a differential lock–definitely a nice-to-have, but expensive.

On the topic of horsepower… after a recent ribbing by my neighbor, the proud new owner of an 17hp John Deere X300, about how his tractor is slightly more powerful and therefore better (aside from the fact that the wimpy K46 trans axle can’t pull anything), all debates ended after a 200′ drag race in my back yard in which my single-cylinder Kohler beat his V-twin Kawasaki by at least six tractor lengths. But that X300 does purr like a kitten… I’ll give him that much.

These machines are pricey (you’ll pay more for a used GT225 with a 42″ deck than a brand new Troy-bilt with a 42″), but if you take your time and keep your eye out, you’ll find a good deal. I bought this tractor with 100 hours on it, in pristine condition, with the bagger and cart, for $2,000. New, this combination sold for $5,000 (comparable X500 starts at $5,600). If you don’t know what to look for and don’t have the means to transport one yourself, go to the dealership and buy a new one. But if you’re willing to take a little time educating yourself and searching eBay for a good deal, you will be rewarded. You’ll end up with a much more capable tractor for your money than if you’d bought a new one at the sticker price.

Good luck!

I did a lot of research on many mowers and spent many hours debating witch one would be the best for me. My John Deere salesman encouraged me to check around not only prices but also quality and what to look for. He told me to count the nuts and bolts on the frame and deck of a craftsman, while I was there he told me to try to bend the mower deck and frame with my bare hand. Then look at the Cub Cadet and notice how many opposite bends there are on the PTO drive belt that comes from the front of the engine, the awkward reverse pedal, the plastic mower pulleys and to see if I felt comfortable on it. (I am 6’2”) Two days later I went back to talk to him again and to tell him that he was right and to do some more tests on the Deere. He had a GT 225 and a LX 277 out back and he asked me if I wanted to drive them around on the snow packed parking lot. I originally was looking at the LX 255 but after I explained to him what I wanted to do with it for he recommended an extra 500 bucks to purchase the GT 225. The third visit I finally bought.

My GT 225 got delivered on a Saturday on time all waxed up and a full tank of gas with the optional Snow Thrower attachment, chains and weights already installed and ready for 6” of snow that was predicted for that night. My driver had spent about a ½ hour with me explaining about the operation, maintenance, safety and a crash coarse how to take the attachments on and off.

I was a little worried that the tractor didn’t have enough power with the 15 HP engine and the ability of the 42-inch single stage snow thrower. It handled my 200-foot driveway like it was nothing. The traction through the snow with the big rear tires was amazing. It gobbled up the 6 inches of wet snow and threw it 20 feet into the woods without bogging down. The 42C deck is amazing, you won’t be let down by the twin blade action it has plenty of power to push the grass in the bagger. With the anti scalp rollers you couldn’t even hurt your lawn if you tried.

If you think that $3,600 is a lot to pay for the GT225 with the 42C deck I encourage you to check out the Cub Cadet, Simplicity, Honda and Toro. This tractor is solid and built for years, and this price isn’t out of line at all if you are looking for a high-end tractor. If you are debating a Craftsman or any other tractor at your local Home Center, The LT John Deere series starts at $2,000. Don’t settle for junk. Bottom line, I can think of many other things to do on a Saturday then work on my yard. The last thing I wanted to do is be unhappy with a mower for the next 10 years wishing I had spent a little extra, So I spent twice as much and it will last twice as long believe me when I say “I will have this 20 Plus years”.

Tony

The John Deere website is the first place to look for information on new or non-current late model equipment. There is a selection tool which gives you a good starting point when determining your needs. When buying used, you need to be flexible. If you find a tractor priced to sell which is more than you need, as long as it fits in your garage and between your trees, why not? The difference in maneuverability between a 12 horse, 38″ mower and a 20 horse 54″ mower is not as significant as say, a Ranger shortbed vs an F350 crew cab. It’s not like gas mileage is a factor. For information on equipment made in the 70s and 80s, check out weekendfreedommachines.org . But the best source of research I found were the actual Internet ads. Sellers like to focus on the features and details which make the product attractive to you.

After months of window shopping, These are the widely produced series I narrowed my choices down to:

Old 200 series (210, 212, 214, 216)

These tractors were made in the 70s and 80s. They were made for more than just mowing, with a vario-drive (infinitely adjustable) transaxle (belt driven) which handles tilling, plowing, etc. The model number reflects the horsepower (210=10hp). These tractors have a countersprung mechanical lift assembly which uses a lift rod to raise and lower rear mounted implements such as a tiller or sleeve hitch (a hitch which can be raised and lowered for using plows, cultivators, etc, sort of like a 3 point hitch). The lift rod is an option which may not come with the tractor, but is easily added. They have an enclosed rear frame. Earlier models have a screened engine cowling; later models have a louvered cowling. Electric PTOs were available. For a good working model, expect to pay $700-1200.

90s GT 240/245/265/320 series

These tractors were the second generation 200 series, which featured mostly Kawasaki engines, and offered a hydrostatic transmission in the 245 (14hp),265 (17hp) and 320 (liquid cooled). The lift mechanism and hand-speed control moved to the right fender, which is a love-it-or-hate-it setup. The 320 has a hydraulic lift. These aren’t the most sought after tractors, and there is very little information about them on john deere’s website.

Late model GT200 series 225

Similar capabilities to the old 200 series, features an electric PTO, hydrostatic transmission with convienent foot controls. 15-20 hp 1 and 2 cyl Kohler and Briggs engines. These have a countersprung mechanical lift system, first hand operated and later foot-operated. Big upgrade from the LT series is the tuff torq K71B transaxle, which is belt driven but extremely strong. Some have hour meters. Closed rear frame, fully welded. I found a nearly mint condition GT225 to maintain my lawn which I am absolutely satisfied with. See my review. Price generally ranges from $1500-1800 for single cylinder, $2000-2500 for twin cylinder (with a 48″ or 54″ deck).

Old 300 series / 318 / 330

Big brother to the old 200 series, these tractors benefit from hydrostatic transmissions (hand operated) and hydraulic deck lifts. The flagship of this line, and probably the most sought after John Deere garden tractor is the mighty 318. This tractor is shaft driven, with an 18hp Onan engine (hard to find parts for). It incorporates dual spool hydraulics, which allows you to use the optional power lift/angle blade (very common on Internet).These tractors have an open rear frame, and a category 0 3-point hitch and rear PTO are available. This opens up a whole new world of utility. It also has dual rear brake pedals, which allows you to turn on a dime or stop a spinning tire to transfer torque to the tire in contact with the ground. 318s in good condition generally go for $1800-2500. Most but not all old 300 series have power steering, evident by the actuator behind the left front tire. Later in the series came the 322 and 332. The 322 was basically identical to the 318 but had a 3 cyl water-cooled Yanmar gas engine. The 332 has a 3-cyl diesel. These tractors are more in the $2800-4000 range. The 330 diesel is similar to the 332 but no power steering and single vice dual hydraulics. Any diesel in good condition under $3,000 is a great buy. There is a John Deere loader available for this series.

Late model GX300 series

Similar to the GT series, but add a hydraulic deck lift (note the lack of a lift handle poking up the left side), all 2 cyl engines. Same K71 transaxle as GT series, but with a differential lock. Significantly higher pricetag than GT series. These are comparable to new X500 series, but with power steering (so they’re better). Mostly going for $3500-4500.

Old 400 series

Pushing the boundary between garden tractor and compact tractor, the 400 was a beast, with a wide stance, differential lock, three spool hydraulics, and the big one: high and low range. Three point hitch, rear PTO, front end loader, etc available. Made for big jobs and probably bought by a commercial user (farmer or landscaper) who pushed it to its dying breath–then revivied it for a quick sale on Internet. It’s rare to find one of these which didn’t live a rough life. If you can find one in good shape, I’d expect it to be around $2000-2500.

The 420 is a beast of a tractor, with a 20hp engine, available 3pt hitch dual hydraulic ports (like the 318) for the power angle/lift dozer blade, hydro trans, hydro deck lift, power steering, high and low range, locking differential, shaft-driven deck. Just a big, mean green landscape maintenance machine. 430 is the diesel version. I’d expect to pay $2500 to 3000 for a solid, well-used private-owned model.

425 445 455 series

After the old 400 series came these bad boys. Four-wheel steering was an option, in addition to power steering and available 3 pt hitch. Hydraulic deck lift standard. Also features a foot-operated hydrostatic tranny. Most have a 54″ or 60″ deck. These monsters also have a 47″ 2-stage snowblower available, and a front-end loader. 425 has a 20hp Kawasaki 2cy; 22hp for the 445; 455 is the 22hp diesel version. I’d expect to pay $2500-3500 for one of these.

Late model X series

As the 400 series evolved, so was born the X400/500 series (now known as X700). Larger than GT or GX series, 4×4 available, 4wheel steer avail, diff lock, limited (height) category one 3-pt hitch available, front end loader, 3-pt shaft driven tiller… Basically the most capable residential use garden tractor on the planet. Big bucks (way out of my price range). Most of these come off the showroom floor optioned well over $10,000. You might be able to get a 2wd for half that now. This tractor bridges the gap between lawn mower and compact tractor, but leans toward the ultimate mower side, with less turf damage (none) compared to a CUT. The price can vary widely on these, based on the options. They are mostly in the $5500-9000 range. Note the spikey heavy duty all purpose tires (HDAP) which give better traction than turf tires, but don’t tear up your grass like bar tires (these are available on the new X500 and X700 series).

Lemon Goggles

Guys who care about their stuff don’t leave it out in the elements. You want to buy a tractor which has been kept in the barn, garage, or shed its whole life. There are plenty of them out there. Showroom-shiny paint on a 25 year old tractor is a bad sign. Don’t buy some old rust bucket which sat out in a field for ten years, got spray painted with a rattle can then placed on auction–these tractors are powder-coated from the factory. Unlike cars, northern tractors tend to be less rusty, due to being more likely kept inside. Be weary of “complete restorations.” You don’t know what it looked like before they started, or if they knew what the heck they were doing. Ideally, you want a tractor which shows its age, but also shows the care it was given. On a 20 year old tractor the paint should not sparkle, but it should still have a little shine to it. The paint should be worn away on the footrests, with maybe a little surface rust “patina” in that area. The seat should have some minor cracks in the corners, and you should expect the sides of the deck to be a little scuffed. But that’s about it. The old guy who sold his house with the big yard to live in a retirement home is the perfect seller (I found him). The seller who claims it ran when it was parked in ‘92 and has the engine cowlings and deck somewhere in the yard is not the ideal seller. Preferably, the deck should be free of holes or welds. The blades are replaced as they wear away, but the deck sheet metal eventually thins and corrodes from the inside out on high-time machines (it’s only 0.1″ thick to start with) Most high-end tractors have hour meters. What constitutes low hours on a lawn tractor? Any premium John Deere garden tractor should last 1500 hours without any major rebuild.

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