Top Lawn Mower

A lawn’s size is the major criterion in choosing a mower. Don’t pay for more mower than you need, but make sure you get one that can handle the job. Lawns are best kept at a height of 3 to 4 inches to deter weeds, hold in moisture and encourage deep, healthy root systems. Clippings are best mulched — chopped into fine pieces that fall back on the grass and quickly decompose, nourishing the lawn. Regular sharpening makes mowing easier and is better for the grass. Here are five types of lawn mowers to consider.

1. Reel mower: The old-fashioned people-powered lawn mower is making a big comeback because of its simplicity, quietness, modest cost and zero pollution. "You’ll definitely get more exercise," says Todd Dressel of Dressel’s Hardware in Oak Park. "But we can all use that." For a modest lawn — 1,000 square feet or so — it should be sufficient. The reel mower works like scissors, with blades that slice grass cleanly. It can’t handle overgrown grass, so you need to keep up with the mowing. But it never needs oil, gas, spark plugs or winterizing. Expect to spend $75 to $200; more expensive models may be easier to push. 

2. Corded electric: For a small lawn, a corded electric power mower is quieter and easier than gas. There are models with a reel action but most, like gas mowers, have a single rotary blade that whips around, tearing off the top of the grass leaves. Though generating the electricity does create some air pollution, it’s far less per mowing than even the newest gas engine. The problem is the cord. Extension cords max out at 100 feet, so you need an outlet within reach. And Marshall suggests budgeting for a new extension cord each year, because it’s so easy to mow over it. Expect to spend $200 to $350.

3. Cordless electric: Lose the cord with a rechargeable mower and cut a lawn up to 2,500 or even 3,000 square feet quietly and with no fumes and little fuss. With improving technology, there’s plenty of horsepower now, Dressel says, and batteries hold enough juice for an hour or so of mowing at a modest electricity cost. For a bigger lawn, consider a model with a removable battery — and get an extra so you can swap in a fresh one when needed. Some models have an edger attachment. Expect to spend $350 to $500. What about robotic mowers? They are fussy to set up and work only on contiguous lawns. And at $1,500 to $3,000, they still are a novelty item.

4. Gas: The engine of an older gas mower can produce 11 times the quantity of emissions per hour than a car, according to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. If you need a gas mower for a large lawn, consider a new one; regulations are now more strict and recent models pollute less. Gas mowers require gas, oil, tune-up  and winterizing. Resist buying more horsepower than you actually need. Look for an electric starter. Marshall suggests a mulching mower with the option of side-discharging or bagging at edges where clippings might land on beds. A self-propelled mower is easier to push; these machines are heavy. You’ll pay $200 to $600.

5. Riding gas: A riding mower may be necessary for lawns of half an acre or more or for people without the strength to push a mower. But the bigger engine pollutes more and uses more gas. Look for "zero turn" mowers, which are easier to maneuver, Marshall says. Expect to pay $1,500 to $5,000.

Model Number YS24. YardStick 24V cordless trimmer/edger is the most powerful cordless trimmer you can buy. Built for heavy-duty use, with powerful 24V motor and deep discharge rechargeable battery. Cuts a 10″ diameter path and uses 0.800mm professional-grade line with bump-feed line advance. Patented Quick-turn design lets you quickly convert it to an edger. Includes wall-mounted charging stand and blade guard. Limited Warranty.

* Quick-Turn Converts from a Trimmer to an Edger with a Flip of the Wrist.
* 10¨ Cutting Path
* Weight 10.5 lbs
* 0.080¨ Professional Grade Cutting Line
* Superior Cutting Performance
* Longest Run Time Available
* Bump-Feed Line Head
* Integrated Rolling Edge Guide
* 24 Volt Motor and SLA Battery with 84 Watt-Hours Capacity
* Fully Adjustable Handle
* Thumb Safety Switches
* Ergonomic Design Focusing on Symmetry & Balance
* Charger with Wall Storage Rack Included

Model Number YS18. The ultimate combination of power and convenience! The high powered 18v YS18 Line Trimmer, frees you of the burden of extension cords and allows you to go where the work is. Exceptionally well balanced, the YS18 Line Trimmer will meet all the demands of your yard without the expense of gas or hassle of cords!YardStick 18V Cordless Line Trimmer

* 9¨ Cutting Path
* 18 Volt High Power Motor and Ni-CD Battery with 31 Watt Hours Capacity
* Interchangeable Ni-Cd Battery with 1 Hour Quick Charger
* 0.065¨ Professional Grade Cutting Line
* Only 5.5 pounds
* Thumb Safety Switches
* Fully Adjustable Handle & Fully Adjustable Shaft
* 35 Minutes of Continuous Runtime

YardEdger 12-amp electric edger. Features a 7-1/2″ double-sided steel blade and convenient edging guide. Comfortable and easy to use, with adjustable handle and shaft, and accessible controls. Use it to easily trimming of bed edges, edge driveways, curbs and walkways. Includes dual-action safety switch. Limited Warranty.

* Powerful 12 Amp motor
* 7.5-Inch Double-Sided Steel Blade
* Variable Depth Control
* Adjustable Handle and Shaft
* Soft Grips with Dual-Action Safety Switch
* Edging Guide
* Cord Retention Device

The goal of natural turf maintenance is to develop and maintain healthy lawn ecosystems. Different organisms occupy varying ecological niches. By keeping most of the niches “filled” with desired organisms, the delicate balance of nature favors a healthy lawn. Disruption of this balance can lead to lawn problems. One type of disruption is the creation of “empty” niches.

For example, bare soil is an “empty niche” that invites weeds to enter the lawn. Another example is that of beneficial fungi in the soil. Over 400 species of fungi are known to live in the soil and thatch of lawn. Of these, less then 25% are potentially harmful (Daar; 1992).

That means that over 75% of these fungi are occupying a niche that could otherwise by filled by bad fungi. That’s why even one application of lawn pesticides can be harmful to the lawn because it indiscriminately kills fungi, throwing off the natural fungal balance leaving the lawn wide open for attack.

For example, an herbicide is used to kill weeds, lowering the fungi population and creating empty niches. Something as simple as an unusually wet period combined with pest fungi that were previously kept under control by beneficial fungi now have their opportunity to attack the lawn. This can cause significant visual lawn damage. So to control the fungus, a fungicide is applied to the lawn. The additional pesticides make the lawn even more susceptible to problems creating a cycle where the lawn becomes more and more dependent or “addicted” to chemicals for control and prevention of pests and disease. This is what is often called the
chemical treadmill.
Fortunately, due to nature’s incredible ability for regeneration, even the most problem stricken, chemically dependent lawn can recover. The most important thing that you can do for your lawn is to increase the organic matter content of the soil. Organic matter improves drainage, water holding capacity, nutrient holding capacity, encourages earthworms, counters soil compaction and provides food for microorganisms that feed the grass. This is the foundation of a healthy lawn ecosystem. Organic matter can be added as lawn clippings, compost, decomposed manures, and some fertilizers that are high in organic matter. Here are 10 Tips for a healthy lawn:

1. Mow high. Set lawn mower to 2-3” high. Helps prevent weeds, drought, and grubs.
2. Mow with sharp mower blades. Sharpen the blades at least once per year. Shredded grass blades are more susceptible to disease.
3. Mow when dry. Ideally, mow when the soil is dry on the surface. Mowing wet soil can spread disease and using heavy equipment on wet soil compacts the soil causing poor drainage and other problems.
4. Leave clippings on lawn. They will break down to provide natural fertilizer and organic matter to the lawn.
5. Water deeply and occasionally. Instead of shallow and often. During droughts, for most lawns (depends on soil type and irrigation type) water 1x–2x per week for 45-60 minutes. This prevents damage to lawn from lack of water, discourages disease by allowing soil surface to dry, and encourages deep root growth.
6. Fertilize. Apply compost or an organic-based fertilizer 1-2 times per year. This provides essential nutrients and organic matter.
7. Monitor lawn. Keep an eye out for problems so they can be dealt with before getting out of control. Look for unusually colored patches, mole runs, thin grass, bare soil, and dug up areas. Along with these, a lawn monitoring program includes checking the soil for grub populations and soil compaction.
8. Weed control. Hand remove weeds. Try the “water weeder” sold by Lee Valley Tools for dandelions and other tap rooted weeds.
9. Grub control. White grub infestations can be treated with beneficial nematodes. It is best to apply them in the fall. Nematodes have a short shelf life and die in dry soil so follow instructions precisely and only order if planning to apply them soon.
10. Got a headache? If all of this sounds like a headache, consider reducing your lawn and replacing it with low maintenance native prairie or woodland plants, sedges, moss, or edible plants. The possibilities are endless!

TopLawnmower in support for natural mower.